city guides

The cobblestone streets of Prague lead to gothic beauty and modern comforts.

On a recent day at Mustek, a busy pedestrian crossroads at the foot of Wenceslas Square, Segways spun around a blacksmith stoking a coal forge. Such scenes are common in Prague, a city with deep historical roots that is also stretching toward the future.

Prague is changing so rapidly that travelers who visited only a few years ago scarcely recognize it today. Manufacturing, real estate and research and development are all booming, to the benefit of local service and hospitality. But the city retains its eccentric personality, as befits the capital of Bohemia. Its narrow cobblestone lanes still evoke Kafka and Mozart, and its legendary spires continue to lend a gothic moodiness to every moment.

The city is also a case study in European history. It has weathered Holy Roman and Habsburg empires and occupation under the Nazis and the Soviets. Understanding the issues faced by this multifaceted city and its people helps travelers confront the realities of Europe in the new millennium.

Residents of Prague used to have a reputation for being sour—that’s understandable, considering how jealously they guard their lovely city. More and more, however, locals seem happy to welcome guests into the winding corridors and striking buildings of their hometown. Visitors will surely be grateful.

Where to stay

Travelers who stay in the vibrant Old Town can walk easily to the best shops and restaurants. The Mala Strana district, under Prague Castle, offers a medieval character and the opportunity for late-night strolls across the Charles Bridge.
The more residential Vinohrady neighborhood, located a short tram ride from downtown, is full of leafy streets and good places to eat. Bubenec, the diplomatic quarter, is where celebrities rent villas for long visits, but there are few hotels here for the rest of us.

Each room at Aria ($275–$475), a modern boutique hotel, is inspired by a different musical artist. Try the Mozart or Billie Holiday suites. Guests can rent the stunning adjacent Vrtbovksa Gardens and reserve private multimedia entertainment rooms for events.

Spacious rooms, excellent service and a riverside location make the Four Seasons ($300–$500) an ideal choice for business travelers. For unrivaled views of Prague Castle, request rooms 701 or 431 or the Presidential Suite. The hotel also offers numerous large rooms for conferences and meetings.

A newcomer to Prague, the Mandarin Oriental ($350–$500) has become the hot address, owing to the hotel’s uncompromising commitment to satisfying its guests. The Mandarin’s spa, considered the best in the city, is located in a former Gothic church. Try the Presidential or Lazar Suites for long stays, or room 509 for shorter trips. The ballroom, Monastery Lounge and garden are perfect for small receptions.

Converted from two adjoining Baroque palaces once owned by patrons of Mozart, Pachtuv Palace ($325–$400) preserves Old World charm without sparing modern comforts. Rooms 209, 304 and 305 have the best views. The hotel’s elegant meeting rooms are well-suited for small business functions.

A member of Leading Small Hotels of the World, Le Palais ($400–$450) exudes a peaceful countryside atmosphere. The belle époque Marold and Balcony Suites are particularly recommended. Relax away your workday stress in the wellness center’s whirlpool, sauna or steam bath.

Where to dine

Allegro (11:30 a.m–11 p.m. daily) at the Four Seasons Hotel is consistently named the finest restaurant in Prague. Chef Vito Mollica has created a masterful menu of Mediterranean and Continental dishes, and the elegant dining room and sublime terrace offer incomparable views of Charles Bridge and Prague Castle.

Kampa Park (11:30 a.m.–1 a.m. daily) has long been a favorite of local epicures and visiting celebrities. The menu features both classics and inspired international creations, and the wine list is outstanding. The atmosphere is lively, and the riverbank tables under Charles Bridge are the most romantic in the city.

Nestled in tiny Mala Strana Lane, U Modre kachnicky (12–4 p.m., 6:30 p.m.–12 a.m. daily) is the perfect spot for traditional Czech cuisine—the roast duck with sauerkraut and dumplings is highly recommended. The upstairs dining room, with exposed-beam ceilings and antique furnishings, is sure to spark conversations about local history.

Inside the Prague Guide

Explore and share travel advice on:

• Getting there, getting around
  
• What to see and do in Prague
  
• Recommended hotels and restaurants in Prague

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THEO SCHWINKE is a freelance writer and editor based in Prague.